The Old Bank Taster Menu Review

There are some restaurants that suck you in from the moment you step foot inside – and The Old Bank is undoubtedly one of them. Situated in the heart of historic Westerham, chef/owner Adam Turley’s vision for relaxed fine dining offers style and substance in equal measure and abundance.

When I arrive for my eight-course tasting menu, I’m struck by several nods to the building’s former life. The colour green is a running motif throughout, while the cocktail list features money-themed mixes such as Credit Score, Fixed Rate, Debt Collector, and Deposit Slip. But make no mistake; this place is far from themed, gimmicky, or overly theatrical, as the food well and truly speaks for itself.

Indeed, tonight’s line-up holds its own against any of the best in Kent, as the canapés steal the show by themselves. Salt and pepper squid with squid ink cracker, yuzu gel, and saffron mayonnaise; duck and foie gras croquette with pineapple chutney; and Isle of Wight tomato on Parmesan shortbread with baby basil are mini morsels of heaven, making way for a masterclass in modern British cuisine.

And don’t get me started on the breads: Freshly baked slices of poppyseed, granary, and Parmesan and herb are accompanied by whipped salted butter, and their ever-popular chicken skin butter. It’s like I’ve enjoyed a cultured roast dinner before I’ve even begun my meal (in the best possible way).

Which brings us to the courses themselves – and they don’t disappoint. The Isle of Wight tomato tart is served with goat’s curd, 25-year-old balsamic, and tomato bubbles, and everything you’d expect of an exquisite taste of summer. Then, there’s the prawn and kohlrabi taco, adding a refined touch to a colourful dish whose Granny Smith apple, red pepper, and summer salad help it shine brighter still.

But the star attraction must be the barbecue Hereford beef: Rib-eye, cheek pie, white peach, savoy cabbage, and smoked mash potatoes make up a meat-eater’s dream come true, with a wonderfully smoky flavour matched by pitch-perfect presentation on the plate – and that’s only the fifth course.

Around me, restaurant manager Luciano runs front of house like a well-oiled machine – shaking up cocktails, pouring wines, and talking guests through their selections with flamboyant finesse, charm, and charisma. The kitchen is the same, as Adam and sous chef Tommy never miss a beat; no wonder The Old Bank gained a Michelin Plate for 2021, with Adam also named Kent Life’s Chef of the Year.

Wine pairings are an integral part of the evening, serving to elevate proceedings further. The broad bean, truffle, brioche, and Parmesan is a simply heavenly match with Chapel Down’s Bacchus 2018, and Alto Molino’s Torrontés 2019 is perfectly suited to artichoke barigoule, sunflower seed, lovage, and green tomato. Everything is precise, with no stone left unturned in pursuing culinary perfection.

Somehow, there’s some room left for cheese and dessert. The cheeseboard is a veritable who’s who of the UK’s finest, including local favourites such as Kingcott Dairy’s Kentish Blue, and The Idle Hour from Alsop & Walker. Further afield, Fen Farm Dairy’s legendary Baron Bigod takes the dairy crown.

I’m positively stuffed by the time my pre-dessert arrives, but instantly get a second wind at the mere sight of iced white peach parfait. I’m happy to report that it’s every bit as refreshing as it sounds; an invigorating combination of poached peach, balsamic caramel, and shortbread is exactly what I need to set me up for the grand finale of my almond, Kentish honey, and chocolate chip soufflé. As if that wasn’t enough, it even comes with toasted almond ice cream – you know, to really put the boot in.

Despite the sheer volume of food I’ve consumed, the artistry of Adam’s cooking is such that I’m not feeling as if I’m about to keel over completely. I’m nicely full, rather than uncomfortably stuffed – a fine and important distinction to make at the end of any great feast that’s worth talking about after.

Perhaps my most enduring takeaway from the night, though, isn’t the décor, the drinks, or even the food, but the balance that goes into creating such a memorable experience. They’ve got the mix of elegance and sophistication just right, without being snooty, pretentious, or intimidating; a rare feat that lesser restaurants fall short on by going out of their way to swing in one direction or the other.

No, for me, The Old Bank is somewhere you immediately feel right at home, and I for one can’t wait to return, make myself comfortable, and settle in for what I’m sure will be many more unforgettable visits yet to come. My compliments to the chef, who – something tells me – is only getting started.